Last WeekÕs Tasting

Summer Seafood Whites

Assertive character and fuller body drew the most notice last week. The two most praised wines had both. Time open to the air enveloped the pronounced acidity of the 2007 Domaine des Guyons Saumur Cuvee Vent du NordÕs with a full rounded succulent fruit lightly tinged with the honeydew of its Chenin Blanc grape. Bold and fully dry, it could stand up to barbecued chicken as well as any of a number of fish dishes.

TheÊ 2007 Borgo di Coloredo Falanghina was the easiest wine to like. It had an Ê accommodating, almost New World, richness and soft texture, but had an intriguing herbal character that is making the Falanghina grape one of our newest unknown grape rages. This wineÕs popularity was not hurt by its tasting as good as more expensive versions of the grape. Peter found it in the relatively unheralded area of Molise.

The Coffele Soave was also an elegantly soft and rich wine, but was a little lost by its position between the two more strongly flavored wines above. Nonetheless we have only a few bottles left.

The three other wines pleased those with more specific tastes. The 2007 Goisot Bourgogne Blanc Cote dÕAuxerre was lighter on the palate but with a harder minerality to its Chardonnay that reflected the chalk -limestone soil that the Cote dÕAuxerre shares with neighboring Chablis. It was a bit lighter than most Chablis, but more articulated and complex than even more expensive versions. Drink it with shellfish and oysters, too.

The 2007 Domaine La Haut Fevrie Muscadet was a point for Its style of wine, crisp and a touch earthy from its sur-lie aging. It wasnÕt fancy, but very solid with a lot of Muscadet character . DonÕt be put off by its low price. Last weekÕs tasters werenÕt. For Blue Points, Littlenecks, and scrod, any fish that wants lemon.

One bottle of the Chardonnay de Chardonnay showed less floral and with more angular acidity than I had described last week. A second bottle was somewhat softer. Perhaps there is bottle variation. If so, it was all within the expectations of last weekÕs tasters. It drew fewer comments, but more purchases than some of the others. This one as aperitif or with white fish.

White

2007 Domaine La Haut Fevrie (Claude Branger) Muscadet de Sevre et Maine; Color: pale yellow green; Aroma: rounded light mineral, lemony, fleshy; Mouth: bright acid zingy, very rich, thick, nice intensity, firm, acid, clean long finish, very direct; Very Good 11.99; Mixed Case, 10.79; Case, 10.19

2007 Cave de Lugny Chardonnay de Chardonnay; Color: very light gold; Aroma: clean rather stony-flat mineral firm, light pretty fruit; Mouth: fleshy clean light acid pretty unoaked nicely ripe, good acid, firm light finish; Very Good 13.99; Mixed Cs 12.59; Cs, 11.89

2007 Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Biodynamic; Aroma: clean rather racy, light mineral nicely earthy, clean powerful; Mouth: very fine acidity aÊ lactic note, clean lightly rounded fruit, firm minerality, powerful thrust but light on its feet, long pure finish; Very Good Plus 18.99; Mixed Case, 17.09; Case, 16.14

2007 Domaine des Guyons Saumur Cuvee Vent du Nord; Color: medium gold; Aroma: heady spicy, very clean, and rich, fresh light, a touch of spice; Mouth: fleshy citrus, soft, clean acidity, bright , fleshy firm, but long finish firm, fruity,Ê quince & citrus; Very Good Plus 14.99; Mixed Case, 13.49; Case, 12.74

2007 Borgo di Coloredo Falanghina:Ê Pale yellow with green highlights. Intense, fresh floral and green fruit aromas. Medium bodied with melon, pear and apple blossom flavor. Persistent and clean finish.Ê Very Good PlusÊ 18.99; Mixed Case, 17.09; Case, 16.14

2007 Coffele Soave Classico:Ê Bright straw, light yellow. Apple, melon and floral aromas. Concentrated and persistent fruit flavors with lively acidity. Long, clean finish. Very Good PlusÊ 17.99/bottleÊ 16.19/mixed caseÊ 15.29/case

6/3 Summer SeafoodÊ Case: Two each of the above wines at a special price of $166