This WeekÕs Tasting
Wednesday, July 8 5:00 - 7:00
Almost Chateauneuf at Lower Prices

With their Cru Coudelet and Clos Pignonne, Chateaus Beaucastel and Rayas are merely the two most famous Chateauneuf du Pape producers who take pride in the fine wines they make from single vineyards just outside the appelation.
While offering their 2007s, many producers would pull out maps that showed how close their Cotes du Rhone or Cotes du Rhone Villages properties were to Chateauneuf and would describe those vineyards wines as enthusiastically as their Chateauneufs vineyards.
Often there was little difference in the soils. In the 2007 vintage, whose virtues are ripeness and poise, Rhone wines overall quality is more even than in more difficult years. The quality of Cotes du Rhone and the quality of more expensive Chateauneuf du Pape is perhaps closer than ever before. Outliers are a bit lighter, perhaps, more forward and drinking sooner. Their major differences are in price, half to two thirds of a Chateauneuf.
This week with two great quality-for-the-money exceptions are just such wines. The first white is one. The 2008 Mourgues du Gres Blanc Galets Dores, is a blend of the major southern Rhone whites with a bit of Vermentino. Robert Parker called this Costieres de Nimes estate Òa treasure-trove of value. This wine is a cornucopia of juicy flavors.
Domaine de la Solitude has always made its wines in a more delicate style, but one that used to to be too soft. Owner-winemaker Jean Lancon has refined his wines os late into precisely delineated gems of which the whites are the most expressive young. His 2004 Barberini Chateauneuf Blanc was a masterpiece. The 2008 Cotes du Rhone Blanc is gemlike in its delineation, with the green herbs of the garrigue blending with exotic fruit flavors.
Olivier HilaireÕs reds are as pure and crystalline in style as Solitude whites. His style may be light for some , but their purity will delight others. His 2007 Old Vines Cotes du Rhone slips down as smooth and easy as iced tea, but with a lot more dark fruit flavor.
The 2007 Tribouley Cotes de Roussillon l'Alba will make a bold statement, that some of the best artisanal winemaking of Rhone-style grapes is coming from dedicated craftsman in southwestern Roussillon. Jean-Louis Tribouley is monomaniacally dedicated to his craft. His single vineyard Les Bacs and Orchis have gotten rave reviews in the Wine Advocate . This is your I-was-there-when moment to discover his airy, soft black-fruit-and-pepper Syrah-dominated lÕAlba before the critics get their avid little palates on it and make it disappear.
Brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry at the Pierre Usseglio firm are on a roll. Their reserve level Mon Aieul sold out within minutes of its email going out. Their 2008 Cotes du Rhone , four fifths rich Grenache and one fifth spice Mourvedre isnÕt so shabby either. Rich but softer than the Chateauneuf, it will stand up to your grill or stews over the next three years.

White

2008 Mourgues du Gres Blanc Galets Dores, Costieres de Nimes; Robert Parker - ÒThe elegant white .... offers notes of honeyed grapefruit and buttery citrus along with fresh acidity, medium body, plenty of flavor, and a dry, crisp finish. It should be drunk over the next year.Ó 13.99; Mixed Case, 12.59; Case, 11.89

2008 Domaine de la Solitude Cotes du Rhone Blanc; Aroma: lightly aromatic, very clean, nicely fragrant pretty, very clean, pretty; Mouth: clean lightly herbal, rounded, fine light pretty sweetly herbal, nice intensity, dry ; Very Good 15.99; Mixed Case, 14.39; Case, 13.59

Red

2007 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes; Aroma: light, clean & spicy, a touch of garrigue; Mouth: firm sweet round, pretty & engaging, fleshy in the mouth, good length; Very Good 16.99; Mixed Case, 15.29; Case, 14.44

2007 Jean-Louis Tribouley l'Alba Cotes de Roussillon - Biodynamic; Color: very dark black, very dense; Aroma: reserved, very dense, spicy, black-peppery, sweet flesh, a touch of violet; Mouth: clean racy, herbal earth, light and forward, clean very firm, almost delicate with powerful flavors, opens to earthy sweet and heady ripe fruit, fine finish; Very Good Plus 26.99; Mixed Case, 24.29; Case, 22.94

2007 Mas de Boislauzon Cotes du Rhone Villages; Color: very dark; Aroma: heady spicy round Rhone peppery fat; Mouth: l;light sweet very pretty fine, rather smooth with nicely proportioned fruit, and a vivacious acid tang underneath ; Very Good Plus 18.99; Mixed Case, 17.09; Case, 16.14

2008 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Cotes du Rhone; Aroma: heady very dense very dense & rich, a touch of old saddle leather; Mouth: smooth sweet, low acid leather in the mouth, nicely layered texture soft, good length; Very Good Plus 27.99; Mixed Case, 25.19; Case, 23.79

7/6 Rhone Around the Castle Tasting Case: Two bottles each of the above wines for a special price of $206