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Last Weeks Tasting
Summer Whites & Reds
Light on Both Palate and Wallet
Over 11% lighter if you buy by Friday than on
Saturday
It was a case of early bloomers versus wines that
opened later. You expect fine wines to improve when
they have been exposed to the air, but some of last
weeks inexpensive wines took their time before
they showed what they could do in the glass.
The 2007 Polier St. Veran En Messie
wasone of those. It was crisp hard and
lemony at the start of the tasting, but opened to a fine
green appley minerality and richness by the end,
when it received quite a a few appreciative
comments.
The 2008 Lagar de Besada Albarino started
early and finished strong with soft, slightly limey fruit
and and a delicate almost nutty minerality,. it was a
dry and balanced companion to almost any fish dish
you might be serving this summer.
The 2008 Trenz Johannisberger Holle Riesling
Kabinett had a sweetness that my notes last week
had not indicated, probably because it was straight off
the boat from Germany and still shaky from the trip. It
started the tasting with two strong but separate notes
of acid and sweetness but air brought up a slate
infused rich fruit that bridged the two into a very
satisfying whole. This wine is a bargain at its
price.
The 2007 Janin Beaujolais Villages likewise
showed a discordant acidity at first, but with time open
raised up its fruit, it became quite pleasant. One later
taster called it real Beaujolais, and so it
was, not the carbonic fruit juice that that the
supermarket stores sell.
The 2007 Damien Lorieux Bourgeuil
Tuffeauxhad more weight but it first showed the
same sort of acid austerity, in addition to Cabernet
Francs classic acid structure. more open later,
it needs and would be perfect for richer grilled foods.
The favorite wine came last. 2007 Le Rote
Chianti Colli Senesi was fruity and friendly from
first to last taste, a feat it managed without losing any
of its Chianti essence. At 13.99 it is a bargain for its
quality and perfect for late summer, early fall drinking.
Light Wines for
Summer
White
2007 Polier St. Veran En Messie; Aroma:
clean creamy lactic, firm, rounded , fine; Mouth: fleshy
round, nice breadth, very rich , old viney, nice dry
richness & spice; Very Good Plus
15.99; Mixed Case, 14.39; Case, 13.59
2008 Trenz Johannisberger Holle Riesling
Kabinett; Aroma: light very pretty dry and sweet,
racy acid rather firm, fine, elegant; Mouth: lean fine
acid, nice racy acidity, jut off dry, very clean , very
pure, very fine acidity, long; Very Good Plus
16.99; Mixed Case, 15.29; Case, 14.44
2008 Lagar de Besada Albarino: Pale straw
with green highlights. rich fruit aromas, peach and
apricot with a floral edge. Dry, crisp and elegant on the
palate. Very Good Plus17.99/bottle
16.19/mixed case 15.29/case
Red
2007 Paul Janin & Fils Beaujolais Villages
Domaine des Vignes des Jumeaux-
Biodynamic; Color: very purple; Aroma: light
clean a fine granitic minerality, a touch smoky; Mouth:
clean on the attack, fine acid pretty, rich, an interesting
earthy quality, dry dimensioned ; Very Good
Plus15.99; Mixed Case, 14.39; Case,
13.59
2007 Damien Lorieux Bourgeuil Tuffeaux;
Color: light red brown; Aroma: light nutty, fleshy, clean,
nice on the herbal side of franc, ; Mouth: fresh but not
aggressively so, clean good acid on the attack, , but
rounded, nicely fleshy, nutty on the finish, good length;
Very Good 16.99; Mixed Case, 15.29;
Case, 14.44
2007 Le Rote Chianti Colli Senesi: Bright
ruby. Black cherry, light spice and a hint of smoke.
Medium bodied palate with balanced fruit, spice and
acidity. Very Good Plus 13.99/bottle
12.59/mixed case 11.89/case
7/22 Lite Wines Case: Two
each of the above wines at a special price of
$167
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