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Not Your Average Champagne
Antonio Galloni Wine Advocate 12/08
The explosive, kaleidoscopic Champagnes of Cedric Bouchard are some of the most compelling wines coming out of the region today. Quite simply, this set of new releases left me speechless and literally shaking my head in awe. Readers should do whatever they can to experience these magnificent wines.
The Inflorescence wines are made from vineyards owned by Bouchards father....The vineyards are cropped to yields that would be considered miniscule in any region in the world, but are shockingly low compared to the average in Champagne, where high yields are prevalent. Because of the low yields, the wines reveal a very fine and subtle mousse. The wines are made from hand harvested fruit, crushed by foot and fermented with natural yeasts. Bouchard prefers stainless steel, as he believes the neutrality of steel allows for the maximum amount of expression of his philosophy, which is single vineyard, single vintage and single variety bottlings. The wines are neither fined nor filtered and are disgorged with no dosage.
The Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is 100% 2006 juice made from measly yields of just 26 hectoliters per hectare. The wine opens with a gorgeous, captivating bouquet that immediately draws attention for its detail and expressiveness. This intensely floral wine offers up tons of crisp green apples and pears, with the Pinot being mostly felt in the wines weight and depth, rather than in the flavor profile. This is a totally finessed, elegant and seductive wine of the highest level. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2008 after spending 28 months on its lees. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.
I tasted this Blanc de Noirs at an event last week, and found iyt had an almost New World richness, suggesting a lighter, younger, more Pinot version of one by Jacques Selosse. For anyone who can resisit the temptation to drink it now, a few years aging will benefit it immensely.
Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs (Cedric Bouchard) $58 Net
Only Seven Bottles Available!
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