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Valtellina |
Peter writes
Last week we tasted six wines from Valtellina, a province in Lombardy. Valtellina is a beautiful valley in the Alps in northernmost Italy on the border with Switzerland. The grape variety in the tasting was Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo is very famous as it produces both Barbaresco and Barolo further east in Piemonte. For many people, it produces a wine that must be grown into. It is structured and tannic, made only to go with food, yet its pleasures and complexities are very enjoyable.
Export director Francesco DiBernado led us through samples of Pietro Nera and Caven, two wineries in the same town with two distinct styles. Pietro Nera is maintained and produced in a very traditional style and Caven uses more modern methods. It is a father and sons operation.
The first wine was the un-oaked 2005 Caven Terraze Tellino. Tasters found it forward with lots of fruit yet showing a bit of a rough tannic edge. This will wear off in a few months. Next was the 2004 Nera Valtellina Sassello and it was definitely the lightest and subtlest of the group, still very well liked.
The next Caven offering was the 2003 Caven Valtellina Sassella and it got quite a bit of notice. It is a big structured wine and drinkable now. The 2000 Nera Valtellina Grumello was perfectly mature and showed a lovely aromatic complexity and persistently changing flavors.
We showed two Sforzato wines, made with air dried grapes in much the same way as Amarone is made in Verona. These wines, however, are very different. They are still rich and complex without so much of the raisiny character found in Amarone. The 2003 Nera Valtellina Sforzato was again right on target and was very attractive to the group. The 2002 Caven Valtellina Sforzato was the only wine that still needs time. Some of the wood and tannic influence is not yet fully integrated. It will be very fine in a couple of years.
The 2003 Nera Grumello and the 2002 Nera Sforzaro were the co-favorites, so at least in this tasting, tradition edged out modern. Many thanks to the very affable Francesco for his time and expertise.
Red
| 2005 Caven Terrazze Tellino
Ruby red. Bright fruit and herbal aromas (rosemary). rich fruit flavors with an earthy herbal spice. Clean, balanced finish.
Very Good Plus |
$23.99 |
$21.59 |
$20.39 |
| 2004 Nera Valtellina Sassella
Transparent ruby. Rose petal over blackberry and mushroom. Rich flavors, plenty of fruit, underlying earth and tannin. Complex.
Very Good Plus |
$23.99 |
$21.59 |
$20.39 |
| 2003 Caven Valtellina Sassella
Ruby red. Rich aromas of blackberry and cherry, currant and cedar. Full body, floral rich fruit and spice note. Rich tannin in the finish.
Very Good Plus |
$33.99 |
$30.59 |
$28.89 |
| 2000 Nera Valtellina Grumello
Light ruby with garnet rim. Spicy, herbal aroma with peppery note and black cherry. Medium body with good fruit and spice. textured, soft finish.
Very Good Plus |
$31.99 |
$28.79 |
$27.19 |
| 2003 Nera Valtellina Superiore Sforzato
Red with garnet rim. Complex, ethereal bouquet, nutty, fruity, and spicy. Rich, velvet textured, complex fruit and spice flavor. Long finish, still young.
Very Good - Excellent |
$47.99 |
$43.19 |
$40.79 |
| 2002 Caven Valtellina Superiore Sforzato Messere
Deep ruby red. Rich fruit and spice, floral with anise notes. Rich spicy flavors with cherry and blackberry fruit. Long, complex finish.
Very Good - Excellent |
$58.99 |
$53.09 |
$50.14 |
Valtellina Tasting Case: Two bottles of each of the above wines for a special price of $375
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