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Benziger Estate |
"Wow," said the first in line as he bent his head to inhale the wine that I had just splashed into his glass.
The "Wow" above each glass followed the bottle down the line as each taster bowed his or her head to take a whiff, and then up with an exclamation that traveled down the line as even and regular as an artillery salute.
A salute it was, certainly sincere if not the most expressive in wine terms. And it was well deserved. The wine's bouquet infused the air above its glass, lush and expansive with Grenache's leathery plum fruit in perfect counterpoint with the apple-iron acid line of old vines Carignan.
"Now I don't need Chateauneuf du Pape any more," said Mike E. "How much do you have left," said another.
We do have a few of the 2006 Orchis Cotes de Catalanes. After tasting it again last week, I am very happy that we do. Jean Tribouley is one of the pioneers of artisanal winemaking in the hinterlands of Roussilon. He named his Grenache - Carignan blend after a type of orchid. It is flowery, and also sublime as well as rich.
The 2004 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva was extraordinary in a more reserved way and might well have been the favorite, had it not preceded the more effusive Orchis. It projected the sort of balance, richness, and quiet authority that you get in far more expensive Bordeaux, Ribera del Duero, or Napa Cabernet. People found in it a creamy richness and modulated stucture that, like the Orchis, emerges with time in a decanter and will at moderate cost repay aging very well. Both Chianti and Orchis are Best Buys.
The other two reds each had their fans despite being less rich than the two favorites. Some who prefer the mocha cream of California Cabernet, liked the 2005 Benziger Sonoma Cabernet both for its crisp precision and its reasonably-priced quality and balance. The 2005 Domaine de Piaugier Gigondas, the Wall Street Journal's favorite was mild-mannered, but with a strong tannic structure that will make it a long- lived wine also.
The two white Burgundies contrasted nicely. The lighter, leaner Rollin 2005 Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc was white Burgundy for fans of the more austere Chablis style, but had a different mineral quality. Several people found it a good companion for white or shellfish.
More preferred the rounder, just-shy-of-lush Bret Bros Macon-Villages, in part for its versatility, but more for its rounded acid and inviting greengage- plum.
White
| 2005 Remi Rollin Hautes Cotes de Beaune:
Aroma: very firm, chalky, fine herbal; Mouth: flinty low acid soft, sweet fruity, very clean and direct, subtle;
Very Good Plus |
$25.99 |
$23.39 |
$22.09 |
| 2006 Bret Brothers Macon Villages Cuvee Terroir du Maconnais:
Color: pale gold green; Aroma: bright green, a very pretty rounded acidity firm, soft and inviting; Mouth: firm acid, sweet smooth fruit, lighter style clean sweet , pure, subtle stone underneath;
Very Good Plus |
$29.95 |
$26.96 |
$25.46 |
Red
| 2005 Benziger Cabernet Sauvignon:
Organic; Color: very dark; Aroma: slightly dusty, firm with ripe fruit around, heady; Mouth: sweet firm, clean spicy, firm dusty sweet acid, long sweet rounded fruit, a touch of oak on the finish, pure, crisp;
Very Good Plus |
$21.99 |
$19.79 |
$18.69 |
| 2005 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Berardenga:
Dark ruby. Scents of wild red berry, blackberry and pepper. Meaty texture on the palate with rich fruit and marked tannin. Decanting is recommended.
Very Good Plus to Excellent - Peter |
$26.99 |
$24.29 |
$22.94 |
| 2005 Domaine de Piaugier Gigondas :
Best of tasting. Black wine. Tight and serious, with spice, minerals, lemony acidity and great fruit. The amazing thing is that it's so easy to drink despite its proudly rough-hewn character" -WSJ
Very Good Plus - Len |
$31.99 |
$28.79 |
$27.19 |
| 2006 Tribouley Orchis :
Biodynamic; Color: very dark black red edge; Aroma: very heady very dense, thick, lots of black spice, anise, spicy earth, violet , very harmonious; Mouth: light sweet very pure very fine clean spicy sweet and assertive dense clean ;
Very Good Plus |
$28.99 |
$26.09 |
$24.64 |
10/22 Braced for a Fall Case: Two bottles of each of the above wines for a special price of $282
10/22 Braced for a Fall Six Pack: One bottle of each of the above wines for a special price of: $149
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